London Fashion Week started off with the Swedish School of Textiles Graduate Show. A model emerged from underneath the draperies decorating the wall, wrapping it around like a dress and starting to walk off on to the catwalk.
Surprising with rather large 3-dimensional designs in unexpected fabrics and shapes the graduates´ collections offered an experimental and occasionally rather amusing catwalk experience. Contrasting itself with general tendencies of London Fashion Week catwalk, that tends to be rather wearable and commercial, these pieces of art offered a fresh approach to the vision of the future, inherent to fresh minds of students, who can dream freely, without the need to worry yet how to sell and commercialise their works. Suitable to display rather in a gallery exhibition rather than worn on the busy streets, the sculptural shapes kept an open mind for new experiments.
Have to admit though, after a while the abundance of such avant garde started to run a bit low on innovation, but was finished off by a strong colour explosion.
I had a chance to meet one of the graduates, Estonian girl Evelin Kägo. Being my compatriot it was exciting to find out how did she end up there.
Evelin earned her textile design degree back in Estonia and interned with Iris van Herpen afterwards. Having now graduated from Swedish School of Textiles Fashion MA, she is heading to live and work in Mexico to establish her own brand from there. Rather interesting, I should say! Looking to see what will follow…
Unique to her graduate work is the pure colour geometrical patterns on machine knitted material and semi-transparent monofilament fabric, which is really eye-popping and creates a wonderful visual effect. Oversized fabrics experiment with 3-D, space and movement. Mixing together different layers and concentrating on their visual merging effect in order to create constantly changing surfaces.
Obsessed with knitwear, she would like to continue in that direction, perhaps just making her future pieces slightly more wearable.