University of Westminster BA Fashion show during London Fashion Week was full of youthful inspiration and fresh, slightly crazy ideas – some more wearable than others.
Who really stood out from the group was the talented graduate Paolo Carzana, who I had the chance to work with for his graduate collection.
His collection “The Boy They Stole” was very theatrical, described rather as a breathtaking art installation.
The models were swamped under the piles of fabric and oversized clothes in multiples. Some were carrying an easel on their back, bearing another outfit as if a shadow looking over their shoulder. The whole impression of the collection was slightly eerie but rather imposing. The clothes had hints of traditional outerwear and craftsmanship.
Many of the fabrics used were sustainable – from vintage textiles to pineapple leather, bamboo silk, banana yarn and vegan leather. Paolo hand-dyed all his fabrics personally, using only the environmental-friendly dyes. And truthfully so, Paolo is looking to build a fairer world, with hope for the future.
The concept derives from various sources – “Twelve Monkeys” and the world war uniforms, with the only difference being that his “soldiers” are fighting for the sustainable worlds´ future. Paolo calls these characters his “protectors” who would fight against the men in power.
The history of gloves says that in the 17th century it was very fashionable to have extremely long fingers – or leave an impression of having long fingers by elongating the gloves both at the base of the gussets as well as the fingertips by up to 15cm. The body modifications of the time.
Paolo has taken this idea and translated it into his obscure world´s language, by not only elongating the fingertips but giving them a rather unusual shape. I had the thrill of working with Paolo, hand stitching the gloves for his amazing graduate collection.
Watch out for his future work, I have a feeling it is going to be BIG!