Ashley Isham is a London based designer, originally from Singapore, who has been showing at LFW every season from the year 2000. His rather dramatic and colourful collections always manage to make an impression!
Ashley´s latest masterpiece got inspired by Russian-born young artist Igor Skaletsky, who creates provoking paintings mixing classical art with contemporary themes. He freely manipulates the recognizable images from high art, giving them his own modern interpretation. The contrast between high and low and the resulting overall impression that they create put together, is what offers the most interest. Religious iconography, pop culture, animals anatomy and tattoo images all blend in into quite intriguing results.
Influenced by this, Ashley Isham´s collection ranges from dark toned daywear to casual outerwear to spectacular evening gowns. It is the parade of colourful birds of paradise, stream of frills and dramatic looks, topped off with shiny iridescent men´s tracksuit. A little bit over the top (quite literally in case of the headwear), but just enough for the grand impression, just like Igor Skaletsky´s paintings.
Men´s golden and iridescent shoes were provided by Luke Grant-Muller.
If you´d like a pair, make sure to use the discount code: R1 to get £50 off!
Roberta Einer is a young and very talented Estonian designer, based in London. She studied at University of Westminster and interned at the top fashion houses – such as Alexander McQueen, Mary Katrantzou and Balmain Paris, to name but a few. Having graduated less than a year ago, her first collection for SS15 gained major recognition by its maximalist embroidery aesthetic and this season she has been named as the “One to Watch” by NEWGEN.
Her signature style of abundant embroidery and storytelling through quirky humorous messages continues to flourish, tuning down in color for the Winter season and with this achieving a very stylish, yet luxuriously rebellious look. It is quite remarkable that all of the embroideries are hand made within the UK.
The presentation transformed Soho townhouse into a playroom for juvenile models, sitting disillusioned on the floor amongst their shattered dreams of cottonwool “clouds”, doodling on the floor and cutting stars out of paper.
Roberta drew inspiration from her trip to Vegas, referencing the neon-coloured embroidery on the dark background to her night-time drives around the “City of Lights”.
The “must have” items of the collection are bead embroidered court shoes and knee high boots in collaboration with Kat Maconie.
Roberta is leading the trend of beading and decorative embroidery, that this season has found its way to many leading brands´ collections. Quite a nice change from minimalism to be honest!
Fyodor Golan is a London design duo known for their vibrant clours, eclectic cuts, unexpected shapes infusing sportswear aesthetics to modern luxury womenswear and playing with kitch themes, while exploring contrasts.
For example last year they had a set-up at the Selfridges, expressing well their playfullness and joy for life.
Their latest show at London Fashion Week was no exception to that. Based around the idea of comparing high and low culture, such as Botticelli´s “Birth of Venus” and Coca-Cola imagery, just to name a few. Colours were bright, sometimes even neon or sparkling with Swarowski crystals, balanced out with a few darker hues. Very interesting technique was combinig not only high and low cultural ideas, but also translating the same concept into fabrics, contrasting luxurious velvet with trashy looking fraying edged fabric finish.
Fyodor Golan´s colourful and playful approach is surely original next to more uniformly “wearable” designers´ works.
My new total favorite model Yana Dobroliubova from Moscow expressed the edginess of the collection really well.
Shiny gold and silver brogue shoes were added by my good friend footwear designer Luke Grant-Muller.
If you are interested in getting a pair, here´s a discount code: R1 to get £50 off!
London Collections Men is in full swing and this season we had an amazing opportunity to do a show collaboration with London-based designer Matthew Miller.
He has previously referred to the freedom of speech being the last authentic art form and has used this medium in his collections, turning the wearer of his clothes into a walking piece of Socialist Youth art that gains more value and relevance with every mark it picks up, adding user-generated worth with wearing.
I quite like this idea of item becoming more valuable with memories gained along the way. This also applies to leather gloves that form to the shape of the wearers hands with wear, becoming their own and one of a kind.
Matthew Miller´s collection for AW16 is mainly inspired by “Nouveau Riche” and Caravaggio´s painting of “David and Goliath”, with details of oil on canvas draped around the models. His clothes adhere to classical silhouettes, adding modern touch and utilitarian details. Men´s clothes were elegantly mixed with rather masculine-looking women´s ensembles. I personally really loved the whole collection.
Riina O men´s and women´s gloves added the final touch to the looks.
View Riina O show collaboration with Matthew Miller in full here.