Talented young designer Roberta Einer has been the “One to Watch” since called so by NEWGEN in December 2015. Her newest collection for Autumn/Winter 2017/18 proves that she has a lot to offer.
Always inspired by a certain place, this season she travels to Mediterranean in winter. Portuguese poster art and Fado music, alongside Art Deco architecture and structural Forties cuts, hand-painted prints of nature studies, combined with her signature crafted supersized sequins and Swarovski crystals embellishments.
Roberta´s maximalist luxury ready-to-wear signature style features already familiar oversized bombers, masculine shirts contrasted by elegant slip dresses, peculiar skirt hybrid, which is simultaneously high-waisted and low-waisted, cutaway at the back. The intricate craftwork of the embroideries is rather remarkable.
New innovations include prints, pleating and 3-D fabric manipulation techniques, as well as collaboration with Berlin-based footwear label Aeyde. The hand embroidery features the Mediterranean insects – moths, dragonflies and butterflies – rendered in Art Deco-style.
So much to look forward to!
Haizhen Wang is a London-based designer of Chinese descent, known for his avant-garde, modernist approach to elegance. Having graduated from Central Saint Martin´s in 2005, his origin has helped him to establish his brand globally in both Europe and Asia.
With his artisanal approach to the design process, inspired by architecture the result is masculine femininity with classical tailoring and bold designs.
His Autumn/Winter 2017/18 collection called “In Transit” is the response to the growing immigration crises around the world. The practically constructed trousers with multiple oversized patch pockets and padded jackets for extra comfort are pulled together with extra long belts, referring to the safety belts on planes. Embroidered and Swarovski-encrusted slogan badges reading “fragile”, “handle with care” and “priority” feature on the clothing items. Clear references can be seen towards luggage, travel and passage.
The idea of transit was even further explored within the presentation, where models moved around the plastic-wrapped cardboard boxes as if in the bonded warehouse.
Roberta Einer´s LFW presentation went on a stroll around a wild grown greenhouse with very well dressed models roaming about.
Each of Roberta´s collections is like an experience of its own, with the presentation set to benefit to the overall impression. It has definitely grown from last season.
This time she took us on a trip to South Beach, Miami. Mixing inspiration from botanical gardens, Miami art scene from 1970´s Pop Art together with Dirty South hip hop – pairing silk dresses with hooded tops and oversized bombers. Her trademark embellishments are in place in form of rich embroidery made in different styles, this season also dazzled up with Swarovski crystals and pearls. Neon lights still play an important role as inspiration in storytelling (occasionally quite literally as embroidered words).
Photos by: Dexter Lander
Getting better with every season, Roberta does not fail to surprise!
Roberta Einer is a young and very talented Estonian designer, based in London. She studied at University of Westminster and interned at the top fashion houses – such as Alexander McQueen, Mary Katrantzou and Balmain Paris, to name but a few. Having graduated less than a year ago, her first collection for SS15 gained major recognition by its maximalist embroidery aesthetic and this season she has been named as the “One to Watch” by NEWGEN.
Her signature style of abundant embroidery and storytelling through quirky humorous messages continues to flourish, tuning down in color for the Winter season and with this achieving a very stylish, yet luxuriously rebellious look. It is quite remarkable that all of the embroideries are hand made within the UK.
The presentation transformed Soho townhouse into a playroom for juvenile models, sitting disillusioned on the floor amongst their shattered dreams of cottonwool “clouds”, doodling on the floor and cutting stars out of paper.
Roberta drew inspiration from her trip to Vegas, referencing the neon-coloured embroidery on the dark background to her night-time drives around the “City of Lights”.
The “must have” items of the collection are bead embroidered court shoes and knee high boots in collaboration with Kat Maconie.
Roberta is leading the trend of beading and decorative embroidery, that this season has found its way to many leading brands´ collections. Quite a nice change from minimalism to be honest!